GARY'S TRAVEL TALES
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Sleepless in Seattle

27/11/2015

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​Straight to the nitty gritty, we had booked two nights at the Bed & Breakfast on Broadway, in the area called Capitol Hill. It seemed to be in a good area that suited us, even though the reviews on Trip Advisor where slightly off-putting we went for it. After check-in we were shown to our room; a reasonable size if it were not for the oversized furniture, but it would do.
​A knock at the door; the owners again with good news: "we are upgrading you to our best and biggest room", which was just across the hallway. We got our bags and all and low and behold: space, lots of it, and a nice bathroom. But next morning at breakfast the rug was pulled from under us. After ‘good morning’ came, "sorry but we made a mistake you'll have to move back to you original room as the large room was booked that evening; something that, according to them, had been overlooked. Obviously someone had phoned in the meantime, asking for the bigger room and the owners wanted the dollars rather than let us stay in it. It was all very unprofessional, and I will say straight away that I would not recommend staying there; their home seemed more important to them than their guests. They are definitely in the wrong business. Enough ranting: time for Seattle. 
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​With hire car in hand we headed off for the day in the direction of the lake. Very spectacular views with houses perched along the shore, each one of them with wonderful ever-changing scenery. Just around lunchtime we came across Port Orchard only a few shops and houses that we saw, but perfect for lunch. We went into the Market Hall and chose a café at the back. Two cups of coffee ordered, time to look at the menu. I went for the clam chowder, my partner a burger; both where very good. Time to hit the road again. We looked at the map and saw Bainbridge Island. This would be our next port of call. Over a bridge we went; therefore, it didn't have the feeling of an island, that is, until we came across the view of Puget Sound.
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​We stopped in a small village by the water with only a small string of shops that looked like they had all been built on the same day. The only difference was the colours they were painted in. We found a nice café with tables and chairs outside; so coffees and cakes ordered we relaxed outside in the sunshine. Even though it was June the sun didn't feel all that warm; o.k. with a jumper on but chilly without. Before leaving we had a quick look around the few shops, which were mainly aimed at tourists but pretty much all the same.
Time to get moving again. About ten minutes further on we saw that we could take the ferry back to Seattle instead of driving all the way back on the same route. Once on board we went up on deck just as the boat moved off and it was decidedly chilly in the wind on the water. We fled to the other side of the deck out of the wind and that was bearable. Slowly watching the so-called Space Needle getting ever closer on the shore of Seattle.
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​The next morning we headed of to Snoqualmie Falls, which is about forty-five minutes drive from Seattle. We missed the entrance the first time but after turning around we flew much too fast into the gravel car park and skidded to a halt: a bit of a grand entrance and luckily, it looked a parking space was available. As soon as we got out of the car the roar of the water was immense, the spray started not long after that. The view, wow: white water cascading down a huge drop, my thoughts were ‘where does all the water come from?’ Snoqualmie Falls is well worth a visit.
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Next we decided to take the scenic route back to Seattle. Our plan for the afternoon was to ditch the car and walk down to Pike Place Market. Luckily for us the walk was all down hill and soon enough the red neon sign announced we had arrived. The market had a very nice feel to it, used by locals and visitors alike added to a nice atmosphere. The seafood stalls were mouth watering, for me anyway. We spent a good couple of hours ambling around the area and well worth it it was. Time for a bus back to the notorious B&B. Dinner that night was a typical burger BBQ type place around the corner. In other words: what you see is what you get but we both enjoyed it, washed down with a bottle of Sauvignon Blanc. 
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​The next morning which was our last, gave us just enough time to take a closer look at the Space Needle, then a quick drive up the Freeway to take a look at the massive Boeing aircraft plant and our trip to Seattle was over.
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Malibu (part 1)

30/10/2015

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After what seemed an eternity we arrived at LAX, Los Angeles’ renowned airport famous for the X shaped building there (the Theme Building). We had hired a convertable car as we felt it was part of the LA experience, roof down and airco on but it did feel odd.
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Before we got in the car we put our bags in the boot (or ‘trunk’, American style), got in and proceeded to put the roof down. Nothing happened, we opened the boot again it all looked fine but still the lid wouldn't go down. Time to ask for help. The guy on the parking lot explained that the roof took up most of the boot and only a tiny piece was over, in this case you might just fit a coat and a small bag that was it. We had two large trolleys (traveling light), our only option was to take the bags out, put the roof down and the bags on the back seat: sorted but not ideal.
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We had booked three nights at the Malibu Country Inn. So map in hand, of we jolly well go, traffic being quite busy as it was just after rush hour but the it kept moving and before long we were sailing along the Pacific coast Highway, and wow what views! I loved it immediately. Unfortunately, I'm not the best navigator and we missed our turning for the hotel so we took the next right: a canyon road and within minutes we had climbed Everest. We couldn't see the road over the bonnet it was so steep. We managed to turn around in someone's drive way (thank you) and back down we went. I will avoid that turn off again if I can help it. This time lucky, do a right first left up a steep driveway: home for the next three days.
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We chatted to the receptionist as we checked in about what famous people lived around the area. Barbra Streisand and Cher cropped up amongst others. The receptionist, though, said that Barbra never leaves her home anymore but I wasn't so sure that was true. She showed us to our room but it became obvious this one hadn't been cleaned since the last checkout so a new key and bingo a clean room with a view of the beach from the patio.
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Barbra Streisand's Malibu home
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Cher's Malibu home
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Now, the beach situation along the Pacific Coast Highway is very odd. Lots are marked as private which even comes down to the fact that if anyone goes onto these beaches security guards turn up very quickly and ask the people to leave. But, here is the crunch: sometimes parts of the beaches are public but the owners of the million dollar homes overlooking these beaches want them kept private and if the people refuse to move the guards call the police. The police arrive and generally side with the guards, which makes the police's job easier, they don't really ever want to get out of their cars let alone arrest people for sitting on a beach. Having said that, there are some beautiful wide sandy beaches for those less well off and still with the same views. ​
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It was getting time for a glass of wine and dinner so back to reception for some dining options as the hotel restaurant was closed. Our closest option was back down the drive along the beach road to a place called The Sunset Restaurant which would do us fine. I parked the car in the car park next door but we noticed a man in a bit of a flap at the car park’s entrance; it turned out to be valet parking something we in Europe are not used to plus the carpark was in spitting distance from the restaurant, we just said next time and in we went. The place was modern and across from the beach. Food ordered and a glass of wine a pleasant meal with a great view as in its name. The journey back to the hotel was less than a mile I was driving and had had two glasses of wine which is something I never do and have never done since, but typical: a cop car turns up just my luck. Luckily, he wasn't interested in us, so back safe and sound.
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The beach outside The Sunset Restaurant Malibu
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“If you’re going to San Francisco…”

2/10/2015

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We arrived at San Francisco airport after an eleven hour flight from Amsterdam; twelve hours couped up is about my limit but now some airlines are introducing flights of up to eighteen hours… what a nightmare. Well, that out of the way, we picked up our hire car and off we go in search of the Frank Hotel, just off Union Square. 
​My partner behind the wheel and everything going to plan until we hit Lombard Street. “I can't drive down that” he yelled and unceremoniously got out of the driving seat, holding all the traffic up, giving me no choice other than to take over. It wasn’t all that bad at all: just a series of eight hairpin bends down a steep hill. That over with and not long after we arrived at our hotel. 
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Walking into the reception of the Frank Hotel we were welcomed not by your average Muzak, but by Barbra Streisand… After ‘the good morning and do you have a reservation’ - which we did - I commented to the guy behind the desk saying “Barbra is our cleaner”, he roared with laughter and we got an instant upgrade, a great start. Our room was very spacious with a lounge area with a large tv and a huge bed.
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Time to explore. Union Square was very close by so this was our first port of call. I have to admit there wasn't much to see here. So on we went. We decided to get the cable car down to the bay. Easier said than done: the queue was massive; eventually we got on and found ourselves looking at Alcatraz. Odd though, it sounds it doesn't look that far from land but apparently the undercurrents stopped most if not all prisoners from escaping. 
​Time for lunch so off to Fishermans Wharf. The place was buzzing, a magnet for tourists alike but it had a nice atmosphere. I tucked into a lobster roll, my partner ordered a tortilla. The sun was shining, it was a lovely day. Time to go back to the hotel for a wash and brush up for the evening’s entertainment.
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We had a chat at reception again and were told, by about 7.30 to 8-ish this evening, we would not be able to see the other side of the the street as the fog would roll in off the bay; we couldn’t wait to see it. When we got downstairs full of expectation, we didn’t see not an ounce of fog: what a disappointment. Unfortunately, the receptionist was someone else, the other one would be back tomorrow and we would be having words. 
​By then is was time for a well deserved glass of wine. This city isn't easy to walk around. The hills are big and in the heat..! Something I noticed straight away on our first evening was that this city takes on a different feel at night. Not one I particularly liked, the homeless and beggars appeared from nowhere and were everywhere. Hands reaching out at every corner making me feel very wary and not so relaxed as I had hoped. Dinner over it was time for an early night. After all, it had been a long first day. 

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After breakfast next morning we drove around to the Golden Gate Bridge which was almost covered in fog but still very impressive. It seemed pointless driving across as we would see nothing so we left that for another time. We took the car back to the hotel and headed down to the bay again, where we came across lots of old boats of all descriptions. It just happened that today entry to them was free, what more could you ask for. We went and had a look at the old San Francisco to Sausalito ferry and a few others. 
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That afternoon we headed off to the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art (SFMOMA). It was quite busy but we managed to see all we wanted. ‘Museumed out’ we headed back to the hotel for a bit of R&R. On the way in I mentioned about last night’s missing fog; only to be told "it will happen tonight”, which it didn't. We got the bus around to the Castro. First off a glass of wine in a bar at the beginning of the Castro. My first impression was that the place seemed a bit forlorn but we would leave our final judgement until we had walked around a bit more. We had dinner here in a surf & turf restaurant and very nice it was too and very popular. Next to check out the nightlife. Again we didn't seem to come across a single bar that suited us but at least we gave it a go. Time for the bus to the hotel and still no fog…
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The next day would be our last. As we would be flying that evening we decided to make the most of it. First stop Russian Hill made famous for us by Armistead Maupin's series of books Tales of the city (well worth a read…). The view from the hill was wonderful and I can understand where the inspiration for the books came from. We sat down in the park to catch our breath. The hills are steep and not ideal for walking, but the view from here over the skyline out towards the bay was unforgettable.
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Next back to town for some last minute shopping like you do, write a few post cards over a glass of wine and just enough time to see the fog; after all it was our third evening. I will now call it ‘scotch mist’. It never appeared again. Luckily, our favourite receptionist was on duty and laughed, saying “this never happens, now you've got a reason to come back”. We thanked him for a wonderful stay, saying “yes we will be back’. With that our trip to San Francisco was over.
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    Gary

    Born in Chiswick West London, grew up in Royal Berkshire, currently living in Amsterdam, the Netherlands

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