We grabbed our bikes and fled back to the hotel where we explained what had just happened. The hotel owner looked shocked as much as we did, he asked what travel agent it was and with that we went to our room to have a swim and to calm down. We asked reception about flights and after a few phone calls it became very obvious that most were already full with very few options. The only one suitable for us was business class on Garuda, from Lombok to Bali, so we took it.
Next morning we had breakfast and we asked about booking a boat back to Bali after our stay here. They said best for us was to go to one of the travel agents on the strip. We arranged a boat for the last day and headed to the beach for a change of scenery. Our hotel had its own private beach but the only problem was you couldn't get in the sea for sharp coral. The beach itself had lovely white sand and the feel of a Robinson Crusoe island. After an hour or so we decided to cycle around the island and see if there were better beaches. The island is quite small and you can get around it all easily but we never found a beach with access without coral. Time for a dip in the pool or so we thought, we walked into reception and they asked us if we had booked a boat in a few days. They then informed us that due to a storm between Lombok and Bali all boat services were cancelled for the next days. Why we weren’t told this in the first case I don’t know. So back on our bikes to the travel agent, we explained that we needed to leave on the day we had booked the tickets for and as services were cancelled could we have our money back; we would have to get alternative transport. He wasn't happy; in fact he made it quite plain: no, he would not give us back our money. We insisted and at that moment he flew to the back of his shop, grabbed a knife, jumped over the counter and pointed it at us. We immediately left and backed out onto the Main Street but he followed us, still pointing the knife at us but by now a group of people including locals were asking him what he was doing. We grabbed our bikes and fled back to the hotel where we explained what had just happened. The hotel owner looked shocked as much as we did, he asked what travel agent it was and with that we went to our room to have a swim and to calm down. We asked reception about flights and after a few phone calls it became very obvious that most were already full with very few options. The only one suitable for us was business class on Garuda, from Lombok to Bali, so we took it. That evening we went to the restaurant we had earmarked for my partner’s birthday which was by far the best restaurant on that strip. So after a lovely meal time for a beer in one of the bars, we saw one of the other couples from the hotel though they didn't see us. After a very eventful day time to go back to the hotel. The owner of the hotel was waiting for us and handed us the money for our cancelled boat, someone from the travel agency had heard what had happened and delivered the money to the hotel. We thanked him and he explained that there are no police on Gili Trawangan but the law is upheld by the elders of the island, and when any such thing as this happens it means the person would have to leave the island and not come back. If that happened in this case we don't know, but all’s well that ends well again (so we thought!). Next morning we see our neighbour, fully dressed lying on the sun bed outside his room asleep. We had breakfast and when we got back he was still there alone. Something felt wrong so eventually we went and woke him up and asked if he was ok, obviously not. He said that they had been in the same bar as us last night and got into a conversation with another man who he thought was also a traveller, but not long after that he couldn't remember anything; not how he got back, how long he'd been back, but worst of all his girlfriend wasn't back. What on earth do you do on an island with no police. After about thirty minutes his girlfriend appeared, looking absolutely dreadful, saying she had no idea what had happened to her. We could see she was positively frightened. Obviously, that other man had spiked their drinks but what had he done to her? We could see the horror in her face. It turned out that they were also on the same flight as us from Lombok to Bali but on the whole journey from Gili Trawangan around Lombok in the airport I never heard her speak a word. The pain in her face spoke volumes. After the flight we never saw them again but lessons need to be learnt: never leave your drinks unattended but also should you accept drinks from strangers. But then again, you’re on holiday, you never think this is going to happen to you, bit it can! Would I return to Gili Trawangan? I don't think so.
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We arrived in Bali after a long flight via Singapore. We had booked an onward flight to Lombok with airline Merpati (no longer with us...). Well, this little plane looked like it had seen better days and as we took off, water was pouring in on the right hand side of the plane so much so that passengers sitting that side were actually moving seats while we took off. I’d never seen anything like it; talk about flight safety gone out of the window..! We touched down in Lombok safely on a wing and a prayer. I laugh about it now but I didn't at the time. Our next means of transport was a taxi that turned out to be a van to take us around to where a boat would take us the small distance from Lombok to Gili Trawangan. It turned out to be a speed boat and it took about twenty minutes to cross. It was dark by the time we arrived. Transport on the island is by pony and cart, so after hauling our bags over the beach, in we flopped bags and all and headed of to our hotel. “Wait , I shouted, my mobile phone is gone”. My partner phoned it and, luckily enough, it had fallen somewhere in the cart: panic over. We had booked a rather smart looking hotel called Luce D’ Alma Resort and Spa. After a five minute bumpy ride down dark mud tracks we arrived. Happy to see some light in all this darkness we were cheerfully greeted at reception and with all formalities dealt with, shown to our room on the right hand side of a very large central swimming pool. The room was large but not very private at night until you closed the curtains as the only thing between us and our neighbours opposite was the pool. As it turned out there was no-one. Very good. We unpacked a few things and decided to go grab something to eat so back to reception we go and was offered two bikes: the easiest way to get around Gili. Not really my cup of tea. So tally ho, off we go. Pot holes everywhere and some full of water. It took about five to ten minutes to get back to the strip of bars and restaurants so we parked the bikes and went off to explore. My first impression was how dark and muddy everywhere was but hopefully tomorrow I would see it in a different light. We had dinner in a type of BBQ place and downed with a couple of beers. Time for bed so back on our iron horses and back to the hotel. The next morning and breakfast done we decided to hang around the pool, all that really meant was opening the patio doors, very relaxed. The place seemed quite quiet with only about two other couples around the pool. Perhaps others had gone to the beach. We spent most of the day swimming and grabbing a few rays of sun. Late afternoon we went back on our bikes to grab a few beers and check out the restaurant situation. My partner’s birthday was coming up and we earmarked a restaurant at the very end of the strip to celebrate in a day of so. But what for tonight most seemed very similar and menus the same, we eventually found somewhere we could buy beers; not as easy as you would expect so back to the hotel. Dinner over with we headed to a bar for a few drinks but there was something about the place. I didn't like the atmosphere in any of the bars; I couldn't put my finger on it at that moment but all would be revealed. Time for an early night so back on the bikes hotel bound we go.
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GaryBorn in Chiswick West London, grew up in Royal Berkshire, currently living in Amsterdam, the Netherlands Archives
March 2016
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